I doubt that any automaker is using fully silicated coolants anymore. Its just the color that the automaker or manufacturer picked. Green coolant isn't old school or old fashioned. If you ratio dilute your own full strength coolant with water, use deionized or distilled water. Only coolant issues I've seen were caused by low levels, incorrect ratios, tap/well water, and excessive intervals. Switching chemistries works best with complete flush. I'd have no problem using Prestone AMAM and have never had a so-called 2-eha caused problem in the 100's of cars that I've serviced with Prestone AMAM. The hype over 2-eha coolant failures isn't true. are either available or can be ordered from various auto part stores. Change it! Pentofrost, Rechochem/OEM, Zerex Asian, Maxlife, BeckArnley, Peak Global. Nobody wonders why only the factory fill is good for 10 years but all consecutive changes are good for 2 years? Whens does the warranty expire? Suckered into marketing, and coolant testing is a useless expense. I would change it out every 5 years using ANY of the 5-year coolants. Perhaps something was lost in the translation from Korean.ġ0 year coolants are simply to lower the cost of ownership. So I believe SPiV could easily go 100K, but we're all just throwing darts with this A/T fluid change. The old fluid was still looking good - red and smelling like ATF does. For my Forte, I just flipped a coin, and chose to do my first drain-and-fill at 80K. They could have made this so much simpler and straightforward by just specifying a reasonable change interval such as 100K, or sooner if severe driving conditions apply, as almost every other auto maker does. Now if they can do just a small (but undefined) amount less of a 'severe' category, then it goes from a 60K fluid change to never changing it at all? IMO that's ridiculous. So let's say that someone decides they're in the severe driving category. And it's likely that almost everyone does one or more 'severe' items at least some of the time. They list a group of 'severe' driving items, but there's no mention of frequency or combinations of those items. IMO they couldn't have made that spec any more inconsistent and nebulous if they tried to. I believe that's the same for every Hyundai/KIA A/T that uses SPIV fluid. I'd expect the Elantra owner's manual says to change the transmission fluid at 60K for 'severe' driving conditions, but its 'lifetime' transmission fluid if not. I'll defer to our resident expert: If anyone would know, based on Hyundai experience, it would be this guy. Again, the "warm & fuzzy" approach.īut this is just "OCD me" saying this. There's probably as many theories on this as there are theories about oil filter brands. If the coolant looks clean, and there's no rattling or ticking noise up front in that area, and the temperature gauge performs okay, I'd leave it alone.īrake fluid- whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy, I guess. Water pump (if it's a metal impeller I'll leave it alone but if it's plastic I want it outta there!)- know nothing about the composite makeup of this part. You're more likely to spot something BEFORE it becomes an issue. Hoses (they look and feel just fine)- just keep an eye out. For value-received, it's not that expensive, IMO. Serpentine belt- absolutely would replace it.I consider it "peace of mind" insurance. You have some time to find them with rebates/sales? Even better. Four new Iridium plugs aren't gonna put you in financial straits and might improve your mileage. :frozen: But, then again, its Phoenix, not the frozen tundra. At 20k it could be winter time, again, when the clock rolls around. Coolant- I'd do it as the climate dictates rather than wait 20k to do it.
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